Costume jewelry became popular in the early 1920's when the newfashions for women were casual as well as sporty, and were not verywell suited to the formal nature of precious stones. The ArtNouveau movement had already shifted the public's focus toappearance rather than cost. Following the war there was a majortrend toward non-precious jewelry.This was a period of wonderful new inventions, upbeat music, andflappers. Jewelry materials ranged from the new plastics through torubies, gold, and platinum. Platinum was the new luxury metal usedwith stones like coral, jade, aquamarine, citrin, onyx and opal.Trend-setting designers were Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.